Thursday, September 11, 2008

opinions vary, but i think "candy season" begins in middle september, as the back-to-school junk gets shoved off into a dirty corner and the halloween stuff gets pulled out. then, for the rest of the year, it's candycandycandycandycandy (admittedly a bit of a lull between halloween and christmas, but that seems to be getting shorter every year...)

last night i noticed that target had almost finished setting up this year's halloween offerings. say what you will about target (and i have plenty to say, believe me-- but that's a subject for a different blog), i think they have the cutest/most unique holiday stuff of any mass-market retailer.

anyway, i picked up a bag of "toasted s'mores" gourmet candy corn. i believe these are manufactured by Galerie (warning: annoying, uninformative flash site). i love s'mores and i love candy corn, so how could i go wrong??? well, here are a few things i've learned over the years:

(1) chocolate "flavored" items are usually a waste of time. if it doesn't actually contain chocolate, it's not going to come even close to approximating the chocolate experience. since chocolate is such an integral part of a s'more, you can imagine that the candy corn incarnation kind of misses the mark in this regard.

(2) sometimes you just can't improve on the classics. i happen to love the sweet simplicity of traditional candy corn, so most variants pale in comparison. this includes indian corn (meh) and mellowcreme pumpkins (bleh).

(3) printing the word "gourmet" on a label automatically disqualifies it from actually being a gourmet product.

so, first things first: rather than the standard white-yellow-orange color scheme, these are white-tan-brown. and they have an inconsistent appearance: some are blistered, some have bubbles or cracks or white spots throughout. gotta say, i'm not all about appearances when it comes to candy, but these kind of look like something you'd find on the bottom shelf at your local dollar store.

the smell is... uh... not like s'mores at all. actually, i'm not quite sure what these smell like. the first things that come to mind are: SUGARY. maple. coffee. you can detect a very faint whiff of artificial graham cracker in the background, but it's subtle and seems to magically come and go.

the texture is pretty good. one of the things i don't like about some brands of candy corn (BRACH'S) is the high moisture content. i prefer candy corn to be slightly dry and crumbly, followed by a quick melt.

so it's not that these are particularly bad, and the colors are an interesting counterpoint to the candy corn of your youth. i just don't think i'd ever guess they were supposed to taste like s'mores unless it was printed right there on the label, and at the relatively high price (as compared to regular old candy corn) i doubt i'd buy them again.

target also had a few other varieties, including cotton candy and green apple.

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